Rules and Regulations for Expedition Peaks
The regulations require that an expedition team wishing to attempt any of
the scheduled peaks apply to the Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil
Aviation, (MOCTCA) through the medium of a Trekking Agency. Various financial
and environmental guarantees must be given and a permit is then issued upon
payment of the appropriate royalty.For all expedition peaks, exceeding 6500 meters elevation, a government
appointment liaison officer is deputed to accompany the team to accompany the
team to base camp for the duration of the expedition. For all peaks with less
than 6500-meter elevation, do not require liaison officer. The primary function
of this Liaison officer is to ensure that the mountaineering regulations and
laws of Nepal are adhered too.
Royalties
Royalty for Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest)
More than one team may be permitted to climb Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) by a
separate route each in one season.
A royalty of US$ 50,000 has been fixed for Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) for a
team consisting of 7 members. The team may include 5 more members provided it
pays extra US$ 10,000 for each additional member. The royalty includes trekking
fee of the team members. The team members will be granted a three - month visa.
An additional US$ 20,000 will have to be paid by the team willing to scale Mt.
Everest by the normal south-east ridge route.
In all regions including Khumbu, an expedition team can have up to 7 members
for the additional royalty.
The team already permitted to scale Mt. Everest will have to pay US$ 10,000
if it intends to change the ascent route. It will have to pay an additional US$
20,000 if it intends to change the ascent route to normal south-east ridge
route.
Mountaineering Royalty (In US $)
Classification of Peaks
(Except Everest) For expedition including up to 7 members For each additional
member exceeding 7 members up to a total of 12 members. Classification
of Peaks
(Except Everest) For expedition including up to 7 members For each additional
member exceeding 7 members up to a total of 12 members.
Peaks above |
8000 m |
10,000 m |
1500 m |
Peaks of |
7501 - 8000m |
4,000 m |
500 m |
Peaks of |
7001 - 7500m |
3,000 m |
400 m |
Peaks of |
6501 - 7000m |
2,000 m |
300 m |
Peaks below |
6501 m |
1,500 m |
200 m |
Liaison Office
Many peaks do not required liaison officer. However, wherever required, the
expedition team must cover all costs of the liaison officer. This includes
wages, Equipment allowance, transport, food and accommodation for the entire
expedition period. The liaison officer must also be insured against accident.
Environment Deposit
Expedition attempting peaks in the Khumbu region must deposit US$ 4000 for
Everest, US$3000 for other 8000 meter peaks, and US$ 2000 for peaks less than
8000 meters. This is refundable upon the team removing all garbage at the
completion of the expedition.
Permits
Radio and Telephone Permit
Operating licenses must be obtained and paid for at the Ministry of Information
and Communication in Singha Durbar for the use of two - way radios and satellite
telephones.
Filming Permit
An expedition wishing to make documentary films of their climbs must obtain
government permission from the Ministry of Information and Communications in
Singha Durbar and pay permit fee the amount of which depends on the nationality
of the filmmakers.
Preparation
Most of the local preparation for an expedition will be carried out by
Cross-Culture Trekking Agency appointed to represent the team, In most cases all
of the required documents can be submitted to the various government agencies in
advance so that there is minimal delay in issuing the necessary permits once the
team arrives.
Cross-Culture will also, in most cases, arrange much of the equipment, food,
fuel, and engaged all of the required local staff.
Seasons
Expeditions can be carried out throughout the year. For the highest peaks,
the latter part of the spring season is the most popular since weather and snow
conditions are more predictable at this time. Winter season is sometimes
possible but weather conditions usually make successful attempts unlikely.
Pick Climbing
Many of you have dreamed of reaching a summit of a mountain among Many
Himalayan Peaks in Nepal. Amateur mountaineers and strong trekkers can
successfully climb many smaller Himalayan Peaks on a relatively short holiday.
Since 1978 the NMA has had the authority to issue permission for small-scale
attempts on 18 peaks that are known as "Trekking Peaks" for trekking groups with
permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association. Permits for these can be
obtained at a short time with pardonable formalities and price. Rather than
requiring an expensive expedition permit and complex regulations. The climbing
treks will be led by our Sherpa Sirdars, some of whom have climbed Mt Everest
and other Himalayan Peaks.
Trekking Peaks
Compared to expedition peaks, the regulations pertaining to trekking peaks
are relatively simple. A permit is required, which is issued by the Nepal
Mountaineering Association upon payment of a royalty fee. Cross-Culture Trekking
Agency makes all arrangement to issue of a trekking peaks permit within 24
hours.
Names of the Peaks:
GROUP "A" |
S. No. |
Name of the Peaks |
Height |
Region |
01 |
Mt. Cholatse |
6440m. |
Khumbu Himal |
02 |
Labuje West |
6145m. |
" |
03 |
Mt. Chhukung Ri |
5550m. |
" |
04 |
Mt. Machermo |
6273m. |
Mahalangur |
05 |
Mt. Kyazo Ri |
6186m. |
" |
06 |
Mt. Phari Lapcha |
6017m. |
" |
07 |
Mt. Nirekha |
6159m. |
" |
08 |
Ombigaichen |
6340m. |
" |
09 |
Mt. ABI |
6097m. |
" |
10 |
Mt. Langsisa Ri |
6427m. |
Jugal |
11 |
Mt. Bokta |
6143m. |
Kanchenjunga |
12 |
Mt. Chekigo |
6257m. |
Gaurishankar |
13 |
Mt. Larkya Peak |
6010m. |
Manaslu |
14 |
Mt. Yala Peak |
5732m. |
Langtang |
15 |
Mt. Yabra Himal |
6035m. |
" |
Fee Structure for Group "A" Peaks
- Royalty for up to 7 members - US$ 500.
- Royalty for each additional member up to 12 people - US$ 100.
GROUP "B" |
S. No. |
Name of the Peaks |
Height |
Region |
01 |
Mt. Hiuchuli |
6441m. |
Annapurna Himal |
02 |
Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak) |
6501m. |
" |
03 |
Mt. Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) |
5663m. |
" |
04 |
Mt. Mardi Himal |
5587m. |
" |
05 |
Mt. Mera Peak |
6654m. |
Khumbu Himal |
06 |
Mt. Kusum Kangru |
6367m. |
" |
07 |
Mt. Kwangde |
6011m. |
" |
08 |
Mt. Imja Tse (Island Peak) |
6160m. |
" |
09 |
Mt. Labuje |
6119m. |
" |
10 |
Mt. Khongmo Tse |
5849m. |
" |
11 |
Mt. Pokhalde |
5806m. |
" |
12 |
Mt. Chulu West |
6419m. |
Manang District |
13 |
Mt. Chulu East |
6584m. |
" |
14 |
Mt. Pisang Peak |
6091m. |
" |
15 |
Mt. Parchemuche |
6187m. |
Rolwaling Himal |
16 |
Mt. Ramdung |
5925m. |
" |
17 |
Mt. Ganjala Chuli (Naya Kang) |
5844m. |
Langtang Himal |
18 |
Paldor Peak |
5996m. |
Ganesh Himal |
Fee Structure for Group "B" Peaks
- Group Size Rate US$ Additional P/P US$
- 1-4 persons 350 only
- 5-8 persons 350 Plus 40 per person
- 9-12 persons 510 Plus 25 per person
Preparation for Trekking Peaks
Preparation for climbing a trekking peak is far simpler than for an expedition.
The climbing period for most of the trekking peaks rarely exceeds more than a
few days so large amounts of base camp equipment are not usually required, also
due to their relatively low altitude, the amount of climbing equipment required
is proportionally less.
In general, preparation for climbing a trekking peak is little different from
preparing for a trek.
Seasons for Trekking Peaks
The lower altitude of the trekking peaks means that the ascent some of them is
possible during the winter season as well as during the spring and autumn.
Rescue Service
Himalayan Rescue Association
HRA is a voluntary Nepalese organization registered with His Majesty's
Government to run a mountain rescue service in the mountain tourist areas. The
Association's major role is the prevention and treatment of mountain sickness.
The association's medical research work is undertaken by a team of foreign
doctors at present.
The Kathmandu office and Information Center of the HRA is located in Thamel.
The HRA Information Center has expert and up to date information on all aspects
of altitude sickness. All those intending to trek above 3,000m (10,000ft) are
advised to visit the Information Center. Two Trekker's Aid Posts are listed.
Everest Area
At Pheriche on the main trail to Everest Base Camp, one day north of Thyanboche.
This Aid Post is well equipped and staffed by two Western doctors during the
main trekking season. Trekkers intending to go to
Kala Patthar and Everest Base
Camp are advised to contact the Pheriche Aid Post.
Manang Area
At Manang village in Manang. The Aid Post is well noticeable and has a sign
posted. Regular talks on dangers of altitude sickness are given here every
alternate day during trekking season. The Aid Post is staffed by a Western
doctor. Trekkers intending to cross Thorong La Pass and visiting the surrounding
areas are advised to contact the HRA aid post either at Chindi or at Manang.
Medical Rescue and Transport Communication Facilities
1. Everest and Kanchenjunga Treks
A small hospital and airstrip at Jiri, Phaplu and Khunde (Syangboche). Similarly
a medical facility operated by HRA is situated at Pheriche. There are also radio
station at Chainpur, Khandhari, Taplejung, Phidim, Bhojpur, Terhathum,
Dhankuta,
Dharan, Illam, Chandra-gadhi, Jiri, Namche Bazaar, Thayangboche, Pheriche,
Lobuche and Salleri.
2. Helambu, Gosaikunda, and Langtang Treks
Modern medical facilities are not available in the Helambu area. For Gosaikunda
and Langtang, there is a government hospital at Trishuli Bazaar and a dispensary
at Dhunche. There is also radio and telephone link to Kathmandu at Trishuli
Bazaar. An airstrip is located near Kyangjin in Langtang Valley. The other two
radio stations are on the Bhote Koshi at Rasuwa Gadhi on the Tibetan Border and
in Dhunche.
3. Around Pokhara, Lamjung, Jomsom, Muktinath and Manang
Pokhara has an all weather airport, telecommunication network and a modern
hospital. District hospitals are located in Baglung, Bensishar, and Jomsom.
There is a Trekker's Aid post run by the Himalayan Rescue Association in Manang.
Additionally a small government dispensary at Hongde and Chame, the headquarter
of Manang district; also serve both foreigners & locals. Airstrips are located
at Jomsom, Hongde and Balewa of Baglung. There are radio stations at Chame,
Kusma, Baglung, Beni and Jomsom.
There are also radio stations at
Gorkha and Besisahar. A government hospital
is located in Gorkha. The united Mission to Nepal runs a hospital at Ampipal of
Gorkha.
4. Jumla and Rara
Airstrips are located in
Dhorpatan, Jumla and Simikot. There is a government
hospital and a radio station Jumla. A dispensary is run at Gumgadi. |