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The mountain is notorious for its
steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are
completely open to the elements.
Mt. Makalu

Introduction to Makalu
Makalu is known as the fifth highest mountain peak in the world, an isolated peak, located just 14 miles east of Mount Everest. Makalu's size alone is impressive, but its pyramid like structure with four sharp ridges, makes this mountain all the more spectacular.

Makalu has proved to be a challenging climb, as only five of its first sixteen attempts were successful. Previously, it had been admired and studied by several Everest parties, but like so many other mountain giants in the Khumbu region, it was not attempted until the summit of Everest had been attained in 1954. Makalu is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements.

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Chomo Lonzo (25,650 ft.) is a subsidiary peak of Makalu, rising just north of the higher summit, separated by a narrow saddle.

Climbing Attempts
Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco, after the team's first attempt failed in 1954. Franco and two other climbers summitted the next day. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and NE ridge.

The first attempt on Makalu was made by an American team in the spring of 1954. They attempted to reach the top via the SE ridge but were turned back at 7,100 metres by a constant barrage of storms. The first ascent by the SE ridge was made by two climbers from a Japanese expedition on May 23, 1970.



 
 
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